Sri Lanka Trip - Oct 26 - Nov 1, 2019
We booked our 6 days, 6 nights itinerary with Nelum Holidays on the recommendation of one of my friends. Chamith Nelum, my contact there, was very responsive and gave me a very reasonable price. Initially, I was planning to book my hotels and transportation, but when I saw Chamith's quote, we just decided to have him book everything. He had arranged for all 4 and 5 star accommodations.
Saturday, Oct 26, 2019 - Flight Mumbai to Colombo
We started our journey from Mumbai. Our flight was at 8.40 pm from Mumbai to Colombo on Sri Lankan Airlines.
Our flight landed in Colombo a little late, around 11.45 pm on Saturday. Immigration in Sri Lanka was a breeze. Our driver Kapila was waiting outside.
Sunday, Oct 27, 2019 - Dambulla, Safari at Kaudulla National Park
We took off at 9.00 am from Sunrise Hotel,
Negombo. Negombo is a small suburb of Colombo. It was a small boutique hotel
good for a short half night stay. Clean and nice. It was run by a family. When
we met them in the morning, the owner’s sons were watching a cricket match
between Sri Lanka and Australia.
We left Negombo and first went to the
Dambulla Rock Temple. It is a Buddhist temple carved in the rock. Entrance fee
was about $8 per person. It was a small 20 min climb. The temple is very old.
There were cave paintings and Buddha in different poses. We learned the
difference between a sleeping pose and a nirvana pose. We were given a guide,
but his English was so bad that Anu had to translate his English for me 😊
It took us nearly 1 pm to reach Sigiriya.
We were supposed to check into a hotel in Habarana village. Instead we skipped
the hotel and also lunch, and went directly to the elephant safari. Earlier, we
had decided on Minneriya National Park, but apparently, all the elephants had
migrated to the nearby Caudulla National Park. The cost of the safari was $30
per person. We negotiated a little, but the safari owner did not budge. It
turns out that the actual ticket charged by the national park is around $10 per
person. So it is not cheap for the owner. That is why they would not lower the
price further.
Our safari started around 2.15 pm. The
safari experience was awesome. Luckily for us, the rains had stopped as well
during the safari. We saw hundreds of elephants.
We came back from the safari at around 6
pm. It started raining again 😊. Luckily
for us, it did not rain when we were doing the safari in the open jeep.
We checked into Cinnamon Hotels, Habarana.
It was a 4-star property, and it was laid out really nicely in a small village
kind of setting. Very cozy place. Buffet dinner was nice. By the way, Haba rana
(Rann means battlefield) was a place where an important battle was fought.
We also had some Sri Lankan food. We had
expected South Indian style Idli-Dosa, but it turned out that Sri Lankan food
is quite different. They had Sambal (similar to a dry salad, dry chutney). They
make their dosa really soft. They had brinjal bhaji. Kiribath, Boiled Manioc, Pol Roti, String Hoppers, Lunu Miris. We sampled the local curries, Jackfruit curry. Banana Flower curry.
We slept quite early around 9.30 pm, quite
tired that day.
Monday, Oct 28, 2019 - Anuradhapur, Sigiriya Rock
We started at 8 am for Anuradhapur, the
ancient capital of Sri Lanka. It was a nearly 3 hour drive. This was a Buddhist
capital set up by the brother of King Ashok of India. Hence, lots of Buddhist
monuments from 2nd Century BC. The city of Anuradhapur was excavated
very recently by the archaeology department. All the monuments were previously
under rubble and mounds of dirt.
The Jetavanaramaya is a Buddhist stupa, located in the ruins of Jetavana monastery in the world heritage city of Anuradhapura, Sri Lanka. At 122 metres (400 ft) it was the world's tallest stupa and the third tallest structure in the world when it was built by King Mahasena of Anuradhapura (273–301). He initiated the construction of the stupa following the destruction of the Mahavihara. His son Maghavanna I completed the construction of the stupa. A part of a sash or belt tied by the Buddha is believed to be the relic that is enshrined here.
The Ruwanwelisaya is a stupa and a hemispherical structure containing relics, in Sri Lanka, considered sacred to many Buddhists all over the world. It was built by King Dutugemunu around 140 B.C., who became King of all Sri Lanka after a war in which the Chola King Elāra (Ellalan) was defeated. It is also known as "Mahathupa". Two quarts or one Drona of the Gothama Buddha's relics are enshrined in the stupa, which is the largest collection of his relics anywhere.
Jaya Sri Maha Bodhi is a sacred fig tree (peepal tree) in the Mahamewna Gardens, Anuradhapura, Sri Lanka. It is said to be the southern branch from the historical Sri Maha Bodhi at Buddha Gaya in India under which Lord Buddha attained Enlightenment. It was planted in 288 BC and is the oldest living human-planted tree in the world with a known planting date. Today it is one of the most sacred relics of the Buddhists in Sri Lanka and respected by Buddhists all over the world.
At the Bodhi tree, the guide made us give them a donation of Sri Lankan Rs. 200 per person. It seemed like a scam. The amount was not a whole lot, but just to see the tree, it seemed too much when no one else was giving it. Mahesh was particularly miffed at the guide for that 😊
Though Anuradhapur was decent, our
experience was neutral. We had personally expected something similar to the
temple complex of Hampi or the temple complex of Angkor Vat, where each temple
was different and worth visiting. Instead, it was all Buddhist monuments, with
Buddha in different poses. It got repetitive after a while. I would not say
skip Anuradhapur, but just see a couple of monuments and drive through it. The
cost of Anuradhapur visit was $12 per person. Double that for non-SAARC
nationals.
We were done with Anuradhapur around 1 pm.
We had the option to visit Mihintale. Mihintale is a mountain peak near Anuradhapura in Sri Lanka. It is believed by Sri Lankans to be the site of a meeting between the Buddhist monk Mahinda and King Devanampiyatissa which inaugurated the presence of Buddhism in Sri Lanka. It is now a pilgrimage site, and the site of several religious monuments and abandoned structures.
But we decided to skip Mihintale. Later when we read about it, we wish we had gone there.
We picked up lunch from a really small
roadside shop. Some dosa rolled with red chutney, vada and a couple of Sri
Lankan desserts. The lunch turned out to be quite delicious.
We proceeded to the Sigiriya Rock Fortress
(about 25 mins from Habarana) and reached there around 2 pm. This a fortress
that is at the top of a very steep rock. It was created by King Kashyap who
killed his father and move the capital from Anuradhapur to Sigirya Rock
Fortress. The price is a little steep $15 per person and it was raining but it
was a great climb. The place is also really well kept. They have also created
very nice stairs against the rock face. There were cave paintings from about
800 years ago, which depicted the culture of that time. Apparently, Kashyap’s
younger brother Muglan had fled to India and he came back with an army to fight
Kashyap. The battle was fought at Habarana and Kashyap lost and committed
suicide.
We came back from Sigiriya Rock Fortress to
Habarana around 6 pm. We just sat around chatting. Overall, we liked Sigiriya.
Though slightly expensive, it was worth it.
On all these drives, we noticed that while
Sri Lankan roads were narrow, the road quality was quite good. However, what
was noticeable was the lack of good options for public transport. For example,
we did not see any Volvo type buses. The public buses were also the State
Transport type simple buses. We were happy that we had decided to get a private
van and not rely on public transport.
Tue, Oct 29, 2019 - Kandy
We started from Habarana Village at around
8.30 am. We proceeded for Kandy. The road to Kandy was not that great. It took
us about 4 hours to reach Kandy by about 12.30 pm. We saw a few places along the way.
We checked into the hotel
Golden Crown. It was a 5-star facility. We then spent time by ourselves exploring
Kandy.
First we went to a burger place. The
reviews were awesome, but the service was slow. Only I ordered a burger while
the rest wanted to eat elsewhere. The burger turned out to be ok. Everyone else
was teasing me about the burger.
Then we went to a place called Global
Kitchen. Swati, Mahesh and Anu ate there (I had already eaten my burger). It
was Indian food, Dosa, ragda pattis and bhel. It was run by an Indian. The food
was very good.
Then we walked to an ice cream shop call Cool Corner which
had great reviews. We reached there around 2.30 pm. It turned out to be great
place. They had many different ice-cream flavors. I would recommend going to
this place. The owner Ramesh is also a great photographer.
I also picked up a couple of mangoes from
the local market just to taste. Their taste was ok, but not great.
We then walked near Kandy lake, which is a
huge lake built in the middle of the town. Kandy is a hill station, so lots of
mountains.
In the evening, we went to the Kandy
Cultural Dance at 5 pm. This was a 1 hour show. We enjoyed it. The cost was $6
per person. I thought it was worth it. I felt that if the stage light was even
grander, then the show would have looked even better. But the artists did a
fine job. There were 10 different types of dances. Especially the firewalk was
simply unbelievable. Artists walking on burning coals and holding a live
firestick in their mouth. Hard to believe.
Then at 6.30 pm we went to the Temple of
the Tooth. This is where a fragment of Buddha’s tooth is kept. It is revered by
Buddhists and there are elaborate ceremonies thrice a day where they do a
“showing” of the casket that holds the Buddha tooth. By the way, Sri Lanka is
70% Buddhist. They also have Christians, Hindus (mainly Tamil) and Muslims.
The Temple of the Tooth was nice to visit,
but the casket and the ceremony was ok. No big deal.
We reached our hotel around 7.30 pm and
went for dinner. At dinner minestrone soup was awesome. They also had a pasta
live counter which was great. It was interesting that the hotel did not mark
vegetarian and non-veg food with green and red dots. Mahesh, Swati and Anu were
a little unhappy about having to ask veg vs non-veg for every dish, especially
desserts 😊
Wed, Oct 30, 2019 - Train Ride, Nuwara Eliya
We started from Kandy at around 8 am and
took the 8.30 am train from Kandy to Nuwara Eliya. This is a 4 hour train
journey going through hilly regions and quite beautiful. It is rated as one of
the most scenic train journeys in the world. Though the journey was beautiful,
I thought it was a little hyped. I found it similar to the Pune – Mumbai train
journey through Khandala and Lonavala, but a little longer. A 2nd
class train ticket was 210 LKR (about 84 INR). Lots of hawkers selling stuff on
the train. I bought everything that I could eat 😊
We reached Nanu Oya Train Station at around 1 pm. This is the train station for Nuwara Eliya, a hill station. Our driver Kapila came to pick us up at the train station.
We first visited Seeta Amman
temple. It is the site of the location where Sita sat under a tree and gave
Hanuman the ring to give back to Ram. This is where Sita was kept. The entry to
the temple is free.
Nuwara Eliya is the place where Ravan’s
Lanka was thought to have existed. It is fairly down South in Sri Lanka, not
near the Ramsetu from Rameshwaram. I thought it was good visualize Lanka and
the place where Sita was kept in captivity. However, the importance given to
Ramayan in Sri Lanka is negligible. Maybe it is the Buddhist influence.
There was another place near the temple
called Ashok Vatitka. But let the name not fool you. It is not the place where
Sita was kept. That place is in the temple. This Ashok Vatika is simply a
botanical garden. Fee is $12 per person. Unless you love botany, ok to skip
Ashok Vatika.
We had lunch on the way at a place called
Indian summer. Again Indian food, made for our soul 😊
We also saw Gregory Lake, a beautiful lake
in Nuwara Eliya, in front of the Indian Summer restaurant.
We checked into the Golden Ridge Hotel in
Nuwara Eliya. Again a 5-star property. When we asked the manager about air
conditioning, he said that they have only heating in Nuwara Eliya, no cooling
required because of the hill station weather.
We then went to Pedro Tea Factory where
they showed up how tea is made. We also understood the various grades of tea.
There was a waterfall called Lover’s Leap
in the Pedro Tea Estate. The tuk-tuk (riksha) guy was quoting LKR 2,000 to take
us to the waterfall. We said might as well do a nice hike. The walking was
about 30 mins. The story of the Lover’s leap waterfall is that a local prince
fell in love with a commoner girl. He was forbidden to marry her. Hence, the
two of them leaped off the waterfall and died. Qayamat se Qayamat tak style.
We got to the waterfall and really enjoyed
ourselves. Mahesh was in particularly romantic mood 😊
We got back to the hotel from the waterfall
around 6 pm. We then went swimming in the heated pool. We had a hearty dinner,
then slept around 9.30 pm. Temperature was around 10 C, so we turned the heater
on. Felt nice and cozy. This hotel was quite nice.
Thu, Oct 31, 2019 - Drive to Bentota
We started from the hotel at 7.30 am. It
was a long drive to Bentota, all the way to the west coast of Sri Lanka. We
first stopped at St. Claire Waterfalls. There is a huge hydro-electric project
in that area. That is why the volume of the falls is dependent on the upstream dam.
Then we went to Devon Waterfall, on the
Devon tea estate. There are hundreds of tea estates in Nuwara Eliya, originally
owned by the British, now in local hands.
We then stopped for a white-water rafting trip. It was 1-hour adventure. Cost was $25 per person. It was totally awesome. We jumped into the water towards the end of the adventure. We had a great time. We had lunch at the hotel where we ended the white water trip.
Starting the whitewater rafting trip.
Starting the whitewater rafting trip.
We were completely drenched in the rapids.
Even Anu jumped into the water.
Mahesh was thoroughly enjoying himself.
Enjoying lunch after the rafting.
We then proceeded to Pandanus Beach Resort
in Bentota. We reached there around 4 pm. It was almost a 6-7 hour drive from
Nuwara Eliya to Bentota.
We first went to the turtle hatchery. They
work for preservation of turtles. Only 10% of turtles hatch. A tortoise has
feet and can retract into a shell. A turtle has fins and cannot retract. It was
quite cool to hold the turtles. There was an albino turtle that was
particularly interesting.
We immediately went into the water. The
water was nice, but the beach had a steep gradient. So could not go far inside.
Pandanus Beach Resort was rated 4-star. We
thought the location was awesome, but food and rooms probably deserved only 2
or 3 star. Not bad, but not 4-star like Cinnamon.
Fri, Nov 1, 2019 - Mangrove Boat Ride, Colombo
The last day of our trip. We woke up at 6
am and went again to the beach. We went into the water and got wet. There is
something about the beach, especially in the Arabian Sea or Indian ocean, where
the water temperature is so nice that it makes you go back again and again.
We then did the Mangrove Boat ride in
Bentota. We saw quite Water Monitors (lizards), Two crocodiles and a few birds.
The ride through the mangrove was interesting but short. Overall, the boat ride
took 1 hour till 10 am. I thought though it was good, it was skippable.
Then we proceeded to the city of Colombo
and reached there around 12 noon. We had a whirlwind drive-through tour of
Colombo.
Independence Hall, Lotus Tower, A few interesting buildings.
Lotus Tower
Finally, we finished the Colombo tour
around 1.15 pm and we reached the airport at 2 pm for our 5.10 pm flight to
Mumbai.
Summary of the Sri Lanka Trip.
It was a great trip. Swati, Mahesh, Anu and
I got to spend time together. We were chatting every evening, learning more
about each other. For example, we learned that Mahesh and Swati like to eat
Mukhwas many times a day, and not just after lunch 😊
Overall, what we liked: Dambulla Rock
Temple, Elephant Safari, Sigiriya Rock, Kandy Cultural Show, Icecream shop in
Kandy, Sita temple, Lover’s Leap waterfall, Whitewater rafting, Bentota, Turtle Hatchery, Colombo
city
What was neutral: Anuradhapur, Temple of
the Tooth in Kandy
What was missable: Ashok Vatika, Mangrove
boat ride.
We had a great time and came back with lots
of shared memories.
3 comments
Splendid description of an awesome place Samir. Brought memories of 1998 when we took a short holiday - Colombo, Dambulla, Kandalam, Kandy and one more place South of Colombo.
ReplyDeleteAs usual very nicely written and described
ReplyDeleteVery nice, SamP.
ReplyDeleteGreat photos, write-up.
Happy anniversary! cheers