• Jai Rawat - Sunnyvale, CA - IITK 91, Stok Kangri, EBC, Chadar, John Muir Trail Trek
• Vibhakar Tripathi - Bangalore, India - IITK91, Stok Kangri trek
• Awadhesh Katiyar - Gurgaon, India - Chadar Trek
• Meenal Patwardhan - Washington DC - John Muir Trail Trek - Anu's sister in law
• Arun Kumar - Seattle, WA - IITK90, John Muir Trail Trek
• Samir Palnitkar - Pune, India - IITK90, Stok Kangri, EBC, Chadar, John Muir Trail Trek
• Anu Palnitkar - Pune, India - IITK90, Stok Kangri, EBC, Chadar, John Muir Trail Trek

• Prakash Adhikari - Chief Guide (he always led in front and paced us)
• Nabhraj - Assistant Guide (he always swept the rear of the trek and also carried luggage)
• Bir - porter assistant (carried our luggage)
• Birda - porter assistant (carried our luggage)
• Pramod - porter assistant (carried our luggage)

• Manaslu (8,163 m)
• Annapurna 2 (7,937 m)
• Annapurna 3 (7,555 m) 
• Annapurna 4 (7,525 m)
• Gangapurna (7,455 m)
• Khangsar (7,485 m)
• Tilicho (7,134 m)
• Nilgiri (7,061 m) visible from Jomsom airport
• Chulu (6,419 m)
• Pisang (6,091 m)
• Dhaulagiri (8,167 m) - on the plane from Jomsom to Pokhara)

Day 0: Pune to Kathmandu (flight)

We got some great views of the sunset from our hotel.

Day 1: Kathmandu to Besishahar to Dharapani (van and jeep)

Started from the address Kathmandu hotel at 7.45 am in an 12 person van towards Besishahar.  Picked up an Ncell sim card on the way at around 10.15 am. It took 45 mins to get the sim card.

Had lunch at 12.30 pm Ina Riverside hotel. Daal Bhat, papad, pakoda. Reached Besishahar at 3.30 pm. Changed from Van to Jeep and started at 4 pm towards Dharapani. Extremely rough road. No tar. Driving on a trekking road. I got some neck pain. Views were very nice though. We saw a really nice waterfall at Chyamche.

We passed Jagat and Tal villages on the way to Dharapani. Reached Dharapani at 7.30 pm in the dark. 

We traveled just 210 km and it took us 12 hours. Extremely excruciating journey. We were dead tired by the time we reached Dharapani. We were looking forward to the trek the next day.

Day 2: Dharapani to Chame trek (10 km)

We woke up at 5.20 am We had clean restrooms (but not attached to the room). This was a norm throughout the entire trek. Everywhere, the restrooms were very clean. Our accommodations were decent.

Breakfast at 6.30 am. Started our trek at 7.30 am from Dharapani. We took a group picture every day before starting out. Our team from left to right, Vibhakar Tripathi, Arun Kumar, Awadhesh Katiyar, Jai Rawat, Meenal Patwardhan, Anu Palnitkar, Samir Palnitkar. 

We had prepared special T-shirts for our team before we started the trek. We wore them on our first day. 

Here the road was shared with vehicles traveling on a trek path.  We saw Manaslu peak immediately after we started. 

Villages we saw. Bagarchhap, Danaque, Timang, Koto, Chame  Mostly along the driving road. Some places we took a detour off the driving road. Lots of crickets chirping in some areas. 

Saw Annapurna 2 peak.  

Reached Chame at 2.15 pm  Ate lunch, roti, bhat, daal, sabji for lunch at around 3 pm. Once again this was the norm. We ate Nepali thali with bhat, sabji, daal and achar for lunch everyday. We had a minor scare when Awadhesh started feeling very weak. It turns out that his blood sugar went low because of the delay in eating lunch. We gave him sugar and he quickly felt better. Thereafter, he started pacing his food intake and he was fine throughout the trek.

We had good accommodations. These are called "tea houses". They are wooden and have simple interiors. But they have a bed with a mattress and a warm blanket. We did not sleep in tents anywhere. We always had tea houses similar to this.

Walked to the river and had lemon tea at Hotel White Stupa along the river. Came back to the hotel at 6 pm.

Dinner at 7.30 pm. Ate veg fried rice and chow mein. In the evening, we used to try out different options, chow mein, fried rice, pizza, burger, pasta. Usually at higher altitudes, digestion does not work efficiently. But somehow, none of us had issues. So we used to try different stuff. The dining areas were usually warm and cozy. A fire used to be lit in the evening to keep us warm.

We also had a pot of lemon ginger tea. We kept drinking lemon ginger tea to consume fluids to acclimitize better. We were recommend at least 4 liters of water or fluids per day. Garlic soup and lemon tea were a part of that quota.

We went to sleep at 9 pm. Weather was cold. I slept with the Down jacket on and a comforter on top.

Day 3: Chame to Upper Pisang (15 km)

Started the trek at 7.17 am. We used to eat breakfast at 6.30 and start our trek between 7 am and 7.30 am. It is important to start Himalayan treks early because afternoons there is a possibility of rain or snow. Morning weather is usually clear.

We stopped for biscuits and water near apple orchard at around 11 am. Place was called Bhartang. We also got a great picture of our constant companions (our backpacks).

Saw beautiful views of the Annapurna 2 peak.

Saw a place called "Gateway to Heaven". Looks like a giant 10,000 foot slide.

Reached Dhukur Pokharu at around 12.15 pm. Ate lunch till 1.30 pm. Left Dhukur Pokharu at 1.45 pm. We greeted some Nepali kids. Even 1 year old kids are taught to respond to "Namaste" very nicely with both hands folded. We had a great time saying "Namaste" to Nepali people and kids throughout the trek, a custom we have forgotten or are ashamed of in India.

We also saw some beautiful wildflowers along the way.

Reached Upper Pisang at 2.35 pm. Net ascent was 600m. We covered 15 km distance. Total ascent 2500 ft. We got fantastic views of Annapurna 2 peak from the deck. 

Did a small acclimatization hike to the monastery. Started at 4.15 pm. Did meditation for 15 mins in the monastery. Came back at 5.15 pm. 

Played Antakshari from 6 to 7.30 pm. We used to play Antakshari every day. The rule was that songs from the previous day could not be repeated. This made the game harder as the days passed. Anu and Meenal were on one side and the men on the other. Anu and Meenal held their own till the end. In the men's team, Jai was the star. His knowledge of hindi songs is just amazing.

We had dinner at 7.30 pm. Went to the rooms at 8.40 pm. 

Back to Day by Day Summary

Day 4: Upper Pisang to Manang (20 km)

Started our trek at 7.22 am from our hotel. Beautiful views in the morning sunlight. We took a lot of pictures from the deck.

We started climbing towards the monastery again, but bypassing the monastery this time.

Lots of climbing initially. We had a choice between the high route and low route. We took the high route which was 9.2 km longer with lots of climbing. It would also help with acclimitization. We got gorgeous views of Lower Pisang. See the path visible in the picture. That is the low route we would have taken to Manang, but it would full of vehicular traffic.

Reached Ghyaru village at around 11 am. 1300 ft climb from the bottom. Took lots of pictures. There was a viewing deck at Ghyaru. Lots of trekkers stopped there for pictures.

Continued to Ngawal village at 1.15 pm where we ate lunch. Great views from there as well.

We also saw some interesting mudslide formations. See the mountains in the background.

Left at 2.30 pm and reach Braka village at 4.15 pm.  Meenal was tired and had a headache. We were wondering whether to send her to Manang by motorcycle. But we convinced to overcome taking the easy way it and walk the remaining 3 km. I was also upset at Prakash (our guide) for having said that the upper route was only 15 km. There is no problem to walk 20 km if the  expectation was set. He agreed and during the rest of the trek, he set expectations a lot more pessimistically.

Started from Braka at 5 pm. Reached Manang at 6.15 pm. 19.2 km, 3,000 ft elevation gain, 1,000 ft net elevation gain. 

Ate dinner at 7.45. Dum Aloo was good. 

Anu went to sleep without eating. She had some nausea and headache  Meenal was very tired as well. We were hoping for a quick recovery the next day. 

We had a rest day the next day, so everyone was a little relaxed. The rest day would help wih acclimitization.

Day 5: Rest day at Manang with Acclimitization trek

Ate breakfast at 7 am. Set breakfast with toast, hash browns and coffee. The hash browns were simply potato wedges fried, not hash browns as are sold in the US. We started the day with beautiful views.

We saw a very colorful hotel.

We left for the acclimatization trek at 7.45 am. We went to the Gangapurna glacier viewpoint. Amazing views of all major peaks Annapurna 2,4,3 Gangapurna, Tilicho, Thorong, Chulu. Pisang and Manaslu.

 

Climbed nearly 1000 ft. 5 km walk.  Spent 1.30hrs at the top. Took pictures. I also conducted a 10 min pranayam and meditation session for the teammates.

Gangapurna lake was completely filled with silt. This silt came in from the glacier due to a mountain collapse.

Annapurna 4 looked gorgeous. It had a signature sofa-set look which allowed us to identify it.

We did a lot of posing and pictures at the top.

Climbed down and reached hotel by 12.20 pm. Ate lunch at 1.00 pm. Burger, fries, pizza and Mexican tacos. Quite tasty. 

Played Antakshari. Then went to the bakery across the street at 4 pm. Had some apple pie, chocolate cake, chocolate roll and hot chocolate. We sat around for quite a while.

Played cards for 20 mins. 

Ate dinner at 7.20 pm. Dum aloo, kofta curry, egg curry etc.. 

Came back to the room to sleep at around 8.40 pm  The tough part of the trek started after Manang.

Day 6: Manang to Siri Kharka (10 km)

Started at 7.17 am towards Shree Kharka (also pronounced as Siri Kharka). 

Great views of Manang receding in the background. 

We also saw great views of Marsyangdi river as we continued. This river eventually meets the Ganga downstream.

We passed Khangsar village. This was the village where the detour to yak Kharka branched off.  Slight ups and downs. Just before we reached Siri Kharka, we saw a monastery set against a natural background.

Reached Shree Kharka at 12.00 noon. 10 km. 

Our room was very basic but had an attached bathroom.

Ate dal, Bhat, sabji. Something other than aloo. 

Played Antakshari, dumb charades and then cards. Badam 7 and judgement. 

It snowed in the afternoon. It got really cold. 

Day 7: Siri Kharka to Tilicho Base Camp (10 km)

Started at 7.25 am. Started with an ascent. There was golden glow on the peaks. 

Climbed a little bit then came to a bridge where the soil had caved in. We managed to go past that with help from the porters. It was a small adventure, but not too dangerous. 

There were gorgeous views.

Then we started climbing down past a landslide area. We had to be really careful. There were these long slopes that looked like 10,000 ft slides. Rocks, soil could come tumbling down at any time. 

Reached Tilicho base camp at 11.35 am, very early. About 4 hours. 10 km. 120 m net gain.

 

Jai and Arun took off for Tilicho lake at 1.00 pm and came back at 5.30 pm thinking that if the weather were bad the next day, they would get it done the same day. We were unable to complete the Tilicho lake milestone as a group. 

Rest of us did a small acclimatization trek from 3 pm to 4.45 pm. Climbed about 500 ft and came back. 

Slept at 8.30 pm because we were planning a 4 am start the next day.

Day 8: Tilicho Base Camp to Tilicho Lake to Siri Kharka (20 km)

Started at 4.07 am from Tilicho base camp. Took packed breakfast, cheese sandwich instead of eating breakfast at camp.

 

Started in the dark with headlamps. It quickly became light at 5 am. It was a gradual ascent all the way.  We saw Manaslu in the background.

We saw a fantastic golden glow on the peaks.

Reached a cement toilet at 6.35 am. Ate the cheese sandwich and left at 6.55 am towards Lake Tilicho. There was a steep climb with lots of switchbacks. 

Then, at one point, we encountered snow.  Here we met a man named Jagat who had brought his mountain bike. He was planning to go down the slopes on a mountain bike. This seemed like a very difficult task given that we were stepping carefully even while walking. But he mentioned that he had done an even harder trail on the other side to Mustang district. It is always interesting to see the variety of adventures that people do.

When we saw snow, we put on gaiters. Walked for about 45 mins and reached Lake Tilicho at 8.30 am (total 4 hours 20 minutes and about 2,800 ft climb).

It was a beautiful day, not too cold. We took lots of pictures. We also took pictures in different poses. W spent time till 10 am (almost 1.5 hours at the lake).

Given that our 28th marriage anniversary was coming up on May 22, I also re-proposed to Anu.

We started back towards base camp at 10 am. Gradual descent throughout. Reached base camp at 11.35 am. We could walk pretty fast. 

Total 10 km round-trip, 2800 ft ascent. We were back at Tilicho base camp at 11.35 am. We ate lunch at base camp. Left base camp at 1.15 pm. 

Passed the landslide area. Very gusty winds with lots of dust. In one place, the winds caused a mini landslide and wiped out about 20 ft section of the trail. We crossed over very hurriedly. A falling pebble hit me in the stomach. Luckily it did not hurt me. Prakash the guide and 5 others went 

through. Anu had a hair raising experience. She had to back off due to a mini landslide before she crossed. Awadhesh and Vibhakar had to wait with Nabhraj for 45 mins before they could crossed.

 

We got out of the landslide area safely. We were happy all of us were able to cross safely Then we crossed the broken bridge.

 

Reached Siri kharka at 4.30 pm. 3.15 hrs from base camp to Siri kharka. About 8 km 120 m net descent. We were quite tired from the long day. But we were happy that we completed the Tilicho Lake, our first milestone successfully.

Day 9: Siri Kharka to Yak Kharka (10 km)

Started at 7.30 am from Shree Kharka. Before we left, Jai flew his drone and got a view of all peaks Khangsar, Gangapurna, Annapurna 3, 4 and 2. 

It was a 20 m net descent to Yak kharka. But the terrain was a constant up and down nepali flat. Nepali flat means you don't really gain any net altitude, but  there is a lot of climbing and descending.

We climbed up to Upper Khangsar. There were a lot of yak and blue sheep (actually mountain goats). Jai flew the drone again to get a closer look. 

Yak here are smaller than at Everest Base Camp and are rarely used to carry loads. They are mainly used for their milk and meat.

We took a lot of breaks and took it easy. Jai flew his drone two more times. 

Then there was a step descent to the Marsyangdi river which flows through to Manang. 

We crossed a bridge and reached a lodge by the river at 12 noon. 

We then climbed up and meet the main trail marked in red and white. From there were walked another 45 mins to reach Yak kharka at 1 pm. 

Lunch at 1.45 pm. Dal. Bhat, sabji. Dal was good.  Slept from 2.30 to 3.30. 

Then went to the dining area across the street. Played Antakshari, dumb charades and cards. Also played carrom.

There was some camaraderie among the girls, excitement at making the next milestone.

Jai also used his camera selfie mode to shave. I decided not to shave for the duration of the trek to protect myself against the sun.

Ate veg burger, fries and pizza for dinner. Played judgement (cards) from 7.30 to 8.30 pm.

Went to the room and slept at 9.10 pm.

Day 10: Yak Kharka to Thorong High Camp (10 km)

Ate breakfast at 6.15 am, started at 7 am.  Lots of ups and downs.  

Reached Thorong Phedi (base camp) at around 10.30 am. 

Started from the Phedi at 11 am and reached thorong high camp with a 425 meter elevation gain at 12.15 pm.

We were greeted by a delicious Nepali thali, served in an ornate brass plate.

It was cold and windy and snowing in the evening. We were wondering what would happen the next day if it snows a lot. In the evening, it snowed quite heavily and the camp looked totally white.

Jai, Awadhesh and I shared a 3 bed room. We had dinner at 6.30 pm. Slept at 7.15 pm. 

It was very cold. In the night, the water stored in the barrels froze. In the morning when we woke up, we had to break the layer of ice on top to get water. We were really worried about how the weather would the in the morning on the next day.

Day 11: Thorong High Camp to Thorong La (pass) to Muktinath, Jomsom (20 km)

Day 11 was our final trek day. We woke up at 3.10 am, slept surprisingly well but I was tossing and turning did to the cold. Left high camp at 4.05 am in the dark with headlamps. We had been worried about the weather and the snow in the night. But the morning turned out to be beautiful and starry. Walking along the trail was not a problem even though it was covered in snow.

We had to climb 600 m. We were walking through snow all the time. The pass was elusive. Everytime we thought that the pass had come. There would be another mountain to climb. We were climbing from about 4800 m to 5416 m. At that altitude, was getting out of breath all the time. 

We reached Thorong La at 8.07 am (4 hours 2 mins). We let Meenal lead and all of us followed her. We took lots of photos. 

We also had lemon tea at Thorong La.

Left Thorong La at 9.20 am. It was a long walk down almost 1,600 m, 5300 ft. It was a long gradual descent. Painful for the knees. 

Reached Muktinath at 12.45 pm. This was the end of our trek.Visited the Muktinath template (Vishnu Mandir). This is similar to the Badrinath temple in India. When Narendra Modi visited Nepal, he did visit Muktinath temple.

Then walked down to the lunch place where we had Thakali food. While Prakash, the guide praised the food a lot, we did not find it very different from a Nepali thali. We took a final trek picture. Thereafter, we were going to be traveling in a vehicle.

Took a taxi from Muktinath bus stand at 3.30 pm to reach Jomsom at 4.10 pm. The jeep drove on a pure dirt road, there was no tar on the road. Not sure how these roads are allowed to be listed on maps.

We were put up in Little Asia hotel. Basic, but nice clean place. The dining room had a fantastic view of Nilgiri peak.

Day 12: Jomsom to Pokhara Flight, Day in Pokhara

 

Day 13: Pokhara to Kathmandu Flight, Day in Kathmandu

Day 14: Flight from Kathmandu to Pune

• Lake Tilicho: It was more beautiful than we imagined. We were posing like teenagers. Just too much fun.
• Thorong La: Reaching the pass at 17,800 was a huge achievement. Our entire team managed to pull it off without a single person getting altitude sickness. That was a major achievement.
• Landslide Incident: The landslide incident between Tilicho base camp and Siri Kharka was hair raising, but memorable. It could have been a lot more dangerous, but luckily we got through safeuly.
• Broken Bridge: The broken bridge between Tilicho base camp and Siri Kharka was a minor adventure, but not too dangerous
• Thorong High Camp Whiteout: Heavy snow at Thorong High camp made us wonder if we would make the trek in the morning the next day. But next day 4 am brought us clear starry skies and a beautiful trek to Thorong La.
• Games and Fun: Cards, Antakshari, Dumb charades. We had a lot of fun as a team. We laughed and joked so much.